Water Softener Leaking? Where to Look and What to Do

First, stop the water

If your softener is leaking, the first job is to stop the water. Turn the bypass valve to the "bypass" position. This sends water around the softener so the rest of your house still has water, and it stops pressure on the leak. Then unplug the softener so it won't start a regeneration cycle. Dry the area and put down a towel. Now you can take a calm look at where the water is coming from.

Where softeners usually leak

Most softener leaks come from a handful of spots:

• Top of the control valve: worn O-rings, seals or a cracked valve body. A drip from the top usually points here.
• Bypass and plumbing connections: loose fittings or cracked connectors where the softener ties into your pipes.
• Drain line: a loose clamp or a cracked drain tube can spray or drip during regeneration only, so the leak may come and go.
• Brine tank overflow: if the brine tank overfills, water can come out the overflow fitting. See our guide to a brine tank full of water.
• Resin tank: a crack in the tank itself is rare but serious. Water seeping from the base of the tall tank is the warning sign.

Taking a photo of the leak and the label on the valve helps us bring the right parts.

Repair or replace?

Most leaks are repairable. Seals, O-rings, fittings and drain lines are inexpensive parts, and a valve rebuild typically runs $250–$500. A cracked resin tank, on the other hand, usually means replacement, especially on an older system. A new softener typically costs $1,200–$2,800 installed. Our water softener repair visits start with a diagnosis and a firm price, and we'll tell you honestly which way we'd go.

More troubleshooting guides

• Water softener not regenerating
• Brine tank full of water
• Water softener leaking
• When to replace softener resin

Still stuck? Our water softener repair visits start with a diagnosis and a firm price.